Skin care formulations have advanced significantly with fewer
products completely occlusive in nature. Layering serums and
moisturisers is now standard practice to achieve multiple
benefits simultaneously, and whilst it remains essential to cross
check ingredient lists for obvious occlusives, many products
designed to form protective films or barriers on the skin surface
use modern actives or technologies that still allow oxygen to
penetrate.
That being said, there is frequent misunderstanding about skin
oxygenation. Skin cannot ‘breathe’ in the way that lungs do, so
this phrase or statement can be misleading.
Whilst oxygen at the skin surface is relevant in regulating the
microbiome and controlling breakouts, it is of course essential,
as in all tissues, for aerobic energy release for regeneration. Skin
primarily receives nutrients and oxygen from the blood supply
found within the dermis. However, it has been known since 1851
that atmospheric oxygen is taken up by the human epidermis.
Research has shown that when the microcirculation decreases
the percutaneous uptake of oxygen increases, but not
sufficiently to compensate entirely. Hypoxia (low levels of
oxygen) can occur when the skin is deprived of adequate
oxygen supply. Hence there may be notable changes to skin
when microcirculation is impacted by age or lifestyle factors
such as smoking and vaping.
A lack of oxygen diminishes the cells’ ability to regenerate and
reduces cell proliferation. Without sufficient oxygen, skin lacks
the energy to maintain its natural vitality, appearing dull, tired,
and depleted.
What is particularly significant is that the oxygen permeability
of tissue is strongly dependent upon water content. This means
that skin that is well moisturised absorbs oxygen more
efficiently and effectively.
INDUSTRY ADVICE FROM BABTAC
WILL LAYERING MULTIPLE
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS STILL
LET THE SKIN ‘BREATHE’?
So whilst microcirculation remains important in oxygenation of
the skin, there are now other ways to accelerate skin uptake of
oxygen through improved epidermal hydration and various
topical actives.
Two botanical actives currently of interest for skin oxygenation
include Ligustrum Lucidum Seed and Nasturtium Flower.
Ligustrum Lucidum Seed is extracted from a plant that grows in
the high-altitude regions of Sichuan, China. It optimizes
oxygenation by increasing hypoxia-inducible factor -1 alpha
(HIF-1α), a protein that plays a central role in the cellular
response to hypoxia, coordinating a wide range of physiological
processes that include uptake of oxygen.
Nasturtium Flower is rich in polysaccharides, zinc, copper and
vitamin C, and supports cytoglobin formation for improved
transportation of oxygen. Cytoglobin is related to other well-
known globin proteins like haemoglobin (in red blood cells) and
myoglobin (in muscles). These proteins are best known for their
role in binding and transporting oxygen. Studies suggest that
cytoglobin may also be involved in helping cells cope with low
oxygen levels or high oxidative stress.
So, whether your favourite products contain these interesting
actives or use others to improve oxygen uptake and sustain skin
hydration, layering skin care serums and moisturizers will
support skin oxygenation rather than hinder it.